Paris
Paris is my favorite city in the world. I’ve spent a collective six months living and eating here — it’s where I wed the love of my life, and where I return for inspiration and clarity.
The city is broken up by arrondissements; each has its own personality and rhythm. I spend most of my time in Le Marais (3e), the Latin Quarter (5e), Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6e), and Canal Saint-Martin (10e and 11e). In more tourist-heavy months (summer), I tend to avoid Palais Garnier (1er and 2e).
Given Le Marais is my favorite neighborhood, see here first — then across the Seine to Latin and Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and up through Canal Saint-Martin and Oberkampf. Paris is best experienced on foot.
Le Marais (3e)
Rue Saintonge is my favorite street. Within a five-minute walk, you’re at:
Dumbo — favorite burger in Paris
Cambridge Public House — meat pies and pints
Officine Universelle Buly — cult classic, 19th-century-style apothecary. If there’s an insane line (likely, since it blew up on TikTok), there are two other locations. If you keep walking by (never a bad idea — all three are in great neighborhoods), you’ll probably get in
Bar Sotto — speakeasy within Carboni’s Italian
Restaurant OGATA — tea house with a set lunch menu
The Butcher of Paris in Les Enfants du Marché — my favorite stall in an iconic food market
La Bonbonnette — new to the neighborhood, first location was in Charleston (owner is French, Americans opened the Paris location). Great cheese, natural wine, and charcuterie. I come here often with a book
Big Love — Italian by Big Mamma group, vegetarian restaurant
Studio Fauve — hair studio dedicated to every hair type. You can get laser, waxing, or a scalp treatment — a head massage with serums
The Coffee — strong coffee, multiple locations, iPad ordering
Along this route, you’ll pass various artisans and pop-up shops. The best are ever-changing — instead of mapping to a specific place, take in the city and be curious.
Noteworthy evergreens include:
For dinner:
Kubri — Lebanese, run by two sisters. Great service and even better food
Terra Bar & Vin — natural wine-focused spot with a thoughtful list and easy atmosphere
Within a 10–15 minute walk of Le Marais:
Mắm From Hanoï — the Tai Lin pho is my favorite bowl of food in the world. Add the pickled ginger and chilis (they bring them to your table). Book in advance; you can usually get a lunch table with 24–48 hours’ notice
Le Peloton Café — great stop on the walk across the Seine
Folderol — wine and ice cream bar by a husband and wife; always a vibe
Partisan Café Artisanal — I fondly refer to as the cool kids’ coffee shop
Sokha Royal Spa Quincampoix — Thai massage spot I recommend in Les Halles. Book 90 minutes with King
Le Grand Rex — great theater if you want to catch a movie abroad; largest screen in Europe
Reformation Paris — pilates, daily English classes
Kore Réaumur — pilates
Episod République — multi-story space offering all types of classes
Thomas Artisan Fromager — cheese shop I love
Canal Saint-Martin & Oberkampf (10e/11e)
Start the day at one of the spots below:
Jivamukti Yoga — yoga on the canal, daily English classes
Holybelly — “It’s good because we care.” Brunch restaurant I love. If the line is insane, head next door to Mamiche for a pastry (or start here :) )
Mamiche — women-owned bakery a hundred feet away. Grab a pastry and browse vintage homewares nearby
Lunch or dinner:
Double Dragon — Filipino-influenced with natural wines. The Comté bao balls are a must. I love the peanut salad. Two sisters own it
Delhi Bazaar — Indian food with natural wines
Clamato (11e) — walk-in-only seafood spot by Bertrand Grébaut (chef of Septime)
Pierre Sang — affordable tasting menu
Latin Quarter & Saint-Germain-des-Prés (5e/6e)
I most often walk over for:
Kodawari Ramen — knockout ramen
Benchy — tamago sandwiches
Blitz Society — chess bar, a great place to wait for your Kodawari table
Semilla — salt fish that Alice Waters raves about — it’s as good as you’d hope
Librairie Chanut — rare and antique books near Kodawari
Shops I like:
Samuel Gassmann — cufflinks
Le Bon Marché — historic department store with curated fashion, food, and home goods
Assouline — designer books
Contre-Temps — watches
Elbe — vintage posters
Also nearby:
Shakespeare & Company — iconic English-language bookstore
Bars on the island barges and river banks — casual and fun, especially in warmer months
Atica — destination dinner, immersive experience
Invalides & Champs-Élysées (7e/8e)
For those seeking more quintessential Paris glam, my favorite spots are in the Invalides (7e — aka get your eyes on the Eiffel) and Champs-Élysées (8e):
Avenue Montaigne — Dior, Harry Winston, Prada, Ferragamo
Le Jules Verne — Michelin-starred, in the Eiffel Tower. Worth the €1–2k if you’re celebrating something big
Parc du Champ-de-Mars — Eiffel Tower lawn
Granite — haute French, tasting menu, Michelin starred
Crazy Horse — cabaret and light show
For art lovers:
Atelier des Lumières — immersive digital art exhibitions in a converted 19th-century foundry (11e)
Historic landmarks:
Eiffel Tower
Tuileries Garden
Arc de Triomphe
Sacré-Cœur
Notre-Dame
Jardin du Luxembourg
Other recommendations not yet covered:
Moulin Rouge, Pigalle (9e) — French institution. If you’re going, get dinner nearby: Pink Mamma or Le Bon Georges
Boutique Yam’Tcha — tea house I love in the 2e, with great bao
Reference List by Area
Le Marais (3e)
Dumbo · Cambridge Public House · Officine Universelle Buly · Bar Sotto · OGATA · The Butcher of Paris · La Bonbonnette · Big Love · Studio Fauve · The Coffee · Le Tagine · Kubri · Terra Bar & Vin
Within 10–15 minutes of Le Marais
Mắm From Hanoï · Le Peloton Café · Folderol · Partisan Café Artisanal · Sokha Royal Spa Quincampoix · Le Grand Rex · Reformation Paris · Kore Réaumur · Episod République · Thomas Artisan Fromager
Canal Saint-Martin & Oberkampf (10e/11e)
Jivamukti Yoga · Holybelly · Mamiche · Double Dragon · Delhi Bazaar · Clamato · Pierre Sang
Latin Quarter & Saint-Germain-des-Prés (5e/6e)
Kodawari Ramen · Benchy · Blitz Society · Semilla · Librairie Chanut · Shakespeare & Company · Bars on the island barges · Notre-Dame · Atica · Samuel Gassmann · Le Bon Marché · Assouline · Contre-Temps · Affiches Anciennes
Invalides & Champs-Élysées (7e/8e)
Avenue Montaigne · Le Jules Verne · Parc du Champ-de-Mars · Granite · Crazy Horse
Art Museums
Musée d’Orsay · Fondation Louis Vuitton · Musée de l'Orangerie · Musée Picasso · Musée Rodin · Atelier des Lumières
Historic Landmarks
Eiffel Tower · Tuileries Garden · Arc de Triomphe · Sacré-Cœur · Notre-Dame · Jardin du Luxembourg
Other
Moulin Rouge · Pink Mamma · Le Bon Georges · Boutique Yam’Tcha
